Monday 26 November 2012

Basilisk Conversion WIP and resin help!

So while painting is ongoing (see 3 half painted guardsmen in background and the cap badge/backpack conveyor belt!) I thought I would show the other thing I am working on. My Forgeworld bits arrived today to convert my Basilisk. With the old boring gun shield removed I started looking at adding the new. 


I have read that warm water is good to bend the resin bits (back?!) into shape. Anyone got any tips on what temperature works best? I take it that its not boiling a kettle job? Also how long do you generally leave it in the water to become supple enough to bend into shape? Is there any danger in too hot/leaving too long?

Another question, but as my basilisk was already put together (about ten years ago!) I missed a trick with magnetising the heavy weapon. What's the thoughts on artillery wielding heavy flamers? Can it fire the heavy flamer and the main gun, I believe from what I read it can't? The heavy bolter, is it just snap shots if you remain stationary and fire main gun? the main rulebook is super ambiguous.

I was thinking the heavy flamer would be a good choice but now it can direct fire inside 36 inches that heavy bolter might be useful, but not if only snap firing. Mind you if you cant fire the main gun and heavy flamer that makes that pretty useless too.

Below is one of the crew I'm putting together for the Basilisk. He needs some green stuffing and cap badge, plus I have goggles for him and his oppo courtesy of Victoria Lamb (My green stuffing skills aren't up to that of the illustrious Col Winterborne!)


Cheers for your help in advance!

Saturday 17 November 2012

First Men of the Regiment reporting for Duty - Finally!

Do you know I promised myself I wouldn't post any photos till I had a full squad, then it was until they were totally finished. But now I know I'm going to have to wait 24hrs between varnish coats before putting on grass/moss, I couldn't resist showing the guys I have just finished painting.


The slight delay in getting some fully done was waiting for the arrival of forge world backpacks the keen eyed among you will notice my light troops are now sporting! You know when you have one of those, I wonder if I.... thoughts, that your wallet instantly regrets when you realise, actually that looks kickass! This was my biggest one! They are also sporting brass eagle cap badges as I realised sculpting green stuff isn't really my thing, and gluing on these, while fiddly, is still a lot easier than creating them.

I know they shouldn't really have eyes but I'm using these guys to practice before I dare paint any characters! The rest of the first two squads are in various stages of either half painted, awaiting helmet badges/backpacks or just needing undercoating. So I will soldier on and hopefully have at least this squad done by the end of the month! I'm keen to get the now completed converted Praetorian Ratling Snipers (here as I think most people missed them) also painted soon, as I really like them and it breaks up painting standard troopers. Some resin forest bases also arrived the other day and those guys are gong to be the first of my army I try out on them.

So after, wow, almost a year since I first contemplated a Praetorian army it feels great to show you the first, of I hope many, of my finished troops. And I'm thinking the 13th Royal Praetorian Rifles, yep, that has a nice ring to it.

Cheers to all for continuing to stop by, comments, constructive criticism and other help always welcome!






Sunday 11 November 2012

Praetorian Pith Helmet Ratlings

This is something I was playing around with a few months ago using Empress Miniatures helmets here. Looking back at them again the helmets didn't quite work, they looked more like they were sitting on their heads rather than being worn! So I replaced them with cut down Victoria Lamb head swaps. I realised after I'd done 2 or 3 that maxi-mini resin heads would have been a lot easier! Doh!


I green stuffed the gaps and I think they will look ok, they also got some imperial eagle cap badges. They're going on some resin tree trunk bases that are on there way, so might not be complete for a while, but they were something to do in between waiting for glue to dry and priming the Praetorians I've just started painting.

To Varnish or not to Varnish? What do you guys think and do yourselves?

The one thing I have never been totally sure about is whether to varnish my finished miniatures or not. There seems to be a general consensus that varnishing models does a better job of protecting them against hazards than not doing so, which seems logical! But while a big one, this is the only real positive I can see to do it though, so is it enough? There does however from reading a lot of guides seem to be no consensus on the best products and methods. So I wondered what the other hobbyists around do? Do you even bother?

I have come across numerous posts on many sites of spray varnish disasters. This has made spray on varnish a definite no for me. I spend way to long prepping and painting my miniatures to ruin it trying to cut corners at the last stage. So I have been testing out a brush on product and its this:


Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish. I had seen it recommended a few times and as I wanted a matt finish I thought I would try out a bottle. A test model (In my finished scheme, loving the way it looks btw!) got a going over with it today. I was going to take before and after photos to show what effect it had on the colours but I forgot and started covering it with varnish! oops, never mind! I can tell you now there is obviously some colour change, but its not massive and actually the very slight shine this varnish gives seems to make the guy pop to me! So its actually a bonus rather than the negative affect on the colours I thought it would be.


I wasn't easy on the guy! I slapped it on, neat and thick and left huge amounts in the recesses. I wanted to purposely see if I could ruin a model with this stuff (Although I understand the cloudy complaints can only happen from spraying?). It doesn't seem to have any adverse effects, I could see no differences in colour or discolouration where I had put it on thick and it was hard to tell how thick the varnish was in different places with the naked eye in normal light, so again all good.

One I'd prepared with varnish a couple of days ago I chucked around a bit and dropped on the desk from height. There definitely seems to be much more resistance to chipping than paint alone which with our metal guys is important. One thing I have found is that the varnish is relatively soft though and not very resistant to scratching. Certainly seems not really any better than without and you have the added problem of, with the varnish on, its now very hard to touch up a scratched model.

Some people have mentioned you need a gloss coat first then a matt coat to get maximum hardness. Can anyone confirm to me this makes a noticeable difference over matt alone?

Weathering powders seem to work ok over the varnish (although I'm a complete novice with them), while obviously you cant brush varnish over the top without ruining your effect.

So here's my big question to you if you answer no other: Am I making a real difference to the life of my miniatures if I use this varnish on them all, or am I lulling myself and actually, when I just inevitably damage them, have I made it almost impossible to repair it without looking crap?

What do others think?

Thanks in advance guys, I ask this advice while the first 5 of my platoon are almost finished on the desk and I can't add basing materials until I decide to varnish or not!



Monday 5 November 2012

Forest Base

I can't believe how long it has been since I last posted. I just haven't been or felt like hobbying recently, the hobby room has been barely used due to work and a general lack of free time. I have still been loitering on Blogger and have enjoyed seeing others new work, now I have got a second wind and have restarted a number of projects. Painting of standard Praetorians is ongoing and I'm hoping to have the first squad finished and photographed soon. Last bit of my jigsaw with them was finishing the base scheme, rather than a woodland scheme I realised it was more a pine forest I was after and the picture below shows roughly what I'm aiming at.

Painting the base is pretty easy now and I'm really happy with what the base looks like before any foliage or extras are added. The one thing I haven't got quite right on this test is the log which I should have put more grey on, I was too light with the first dry brush and too much brown is still showing through. With the resin tree stumps I have though I shouldn't see this as a problem as they have much more defined recesses to dry brush.


So I think it looks pretty good before any foliage is added or flocks. I literally have a draw full of different static grasses, flocks, leaves, moss etc. You name it, I have probably bought it in the pursuit of the perfect base scheme. With a break away from it all though, I have sat down tonight and pulled out a few bits and bobs which I think added to this base really give off the theme I'm trying to achieve, while importantly to me, allowing the base colour scheme I like so much to still be prevalent.



And here it is. Simple but I think effective at portraying a sort of pine forest base so the army has that woodland feel without the need for masses of grass. I stuck a guy on to see how the colour scheme fits and its made me pretty happy that this will look good on a large scale. 


So now back to painting, it wont be quick I'm afraid, Commissar Dave's most recent posts got me determined to get back in to hobbying and to do the conversions I had been planning. Converting is my favourite bit by far, painting I find a chore so I'm breaking up layers by finishing off my five Ratlings as well. Thanks for still following, new stuff should be much quicker coming now as I have a lot of love for hobbying again (and a weekend with the Mrs away!).

Wednesday 29 August 2012

Tutorial: Stripping paint and removing super glue from metal miniatures

This is what I have mainly been up to for the last week or so and the technique I have been using is incredibly successful so thought I would write a quick guide to hopefully help people out who may need it, as I didn't have a clue until a few months ago. There are some good articles out there on forums and blogs, but many were US centric and centred around products available there. Also they concentrated on stripping paint or removing glue and I have put the way to do both in one nice neat post for you!

A quick Google search back when I started out brought such ideas as using brake fluid, petrol and oven cleaner. Now I can't comment on the effectiveness of them but they all sounded a bit dangerous to me! The two products I use are Dettol to strip the paint and then Nail Varnish Remover (Acetone) to remove glue. Both are relatively cheap and allow you to get paint encrusted minis at half the price off eBay and return them to just leaving the factory condition.


Safety

Just so my very part time blogging doesnt get me in any trouble, a couple of points to note:

  • Both these products are fairly irritating to the skin so if your going to expose your hands for any amount of time (especially scrubbing with Dettol) wear gloves.
  • Always leave these products out of reach of children and pets and make sure you cover them so they can't get access, they will be sitting around for a while.
  • While not strictly safety beware Dettol especially smells so don't do this in the house (I use the garage) and again make sure you cover containers as it will permeate far beyond that room otherwise! Not to mention your clothes, they will stink (I drive my wife nuts!) if you get these products on them so don't do this in your Sunday best.
Stripping Paint

You will need:
  • Dettol - original stinky brown as none of the others work! If in doubt you are looking for Dettol Antiseptic (the one for first aid). 
  • A large plastic container with a lid. 
  • An old toothbrush.
  • Rubber gloves.
  • Kitchen Roll (nothing fancy cheap as you can get).
I'd also suggest numerous plastic containers and a pair of large tweezers. Be aware once you have used these items for this, that is pretty much it for using them for anything else without some serious cleaning.

Preparing Minis (Optional)






Its a personal thing but I like to remove the bases and pull apart bits that are glued before soaking my minis. Be careful not to damage the minis though, if a metal part wont come away with a bit of pressure don't bother, the glue will come apart later (have a look at the removing glue part below) so its not worth it. Slottas can be fairly fragile once glued as well so be careful not to put masses of pressure on when breaking bases off as they will probably break off to. Try to snap the base off by putting pressure evenly on either side.









Soaking in Dettol

Dettol is bloody brilliant! It will remove all the paint on your metal mini (caveat being any covered by glue). You need to pour the solution neat into a plastic container (do not mix it with any water), it needs to be deep enough to cover entirely the minis you want to strip . Once you have minis in solution like so, leave them to soak (dont forget to put the lid on to avoid the stench!). I can honestly say you can leave them as long as you like! I left some for 2 months while away, paint comes off easier and absolute zero damage will be done to metal minis. 24 hours is the minimum to get paint moving, but if you want a really easy job leave these guys at least a week.






Cleaning the Mini


If you leave the models in for over a week you end up with the effect in the picture, a mini where the paint is literally falling off. So you can use the Dettol again you don't want to leave all the pieces off every mini in it, that would soon leave it too fouled to be useful. You want to  be wearing your gloves from now on. Its quite hard to pick up minis in this state and that's why I suggested the tweezers. Remove the mini from its soak and put in kitchen towel, rub the worst of the paint off with towel. If you have left the model in for a long period even rubbing off the paint with kitchen towel will remove the worst of it and leave it in a state below.
















To finish cleaning this is where you use the large container and the toothbrush. Put the almost clean minis in the container and put an amount of neat Dettol in. Use the toothbrush to scrub the mini, pay particular attention to hard to reach areas where your towelling wont have done anything. Rinse it off in the dettol and place in a bowl of luke warm soapy water to rinse. Make sure no paint remains when you put it in the water otherwise the paint returns to a sticky gloopy substance and you will have to put it into Dettol to soak again. Then give the models a clean in the water and then a good rinse with clean water. I find the models still smell of Dettol though after! So I leave them to soak in clean water for a few days to make sure no Dettol remains.


After you've dried them off they are like new! Put them in a slotta base and off you go!


Removing super glue from metal models

Sometimes after stripping all the paint glue is still an issue. While only the real perfectionist is going to remove glue from slottas! I find a lot of other modellers have been very liberal with the amount of glue used.

You will need: 
Nail Polish (with acetone)
Glass container with lid
Tooth picks

First put the models needing glue removed into the glass jar. All I have used here is an empty Colman's jar. Then fill the jar with nail polish so all the models are covered. You need to leave this for a bit to work (At least a few hours I would say), it will start working relatively quickly but again the solution can't harm metal so leave them in as long as you like. You must put a lid on the pot, not to mention the fact that it smells quite strongly if you don't cover it the solution will evaporate! Take out your miniatures (again i wouldn'y use hands!).



You then need something soft like a toothpick to remove the glue from the model, anything sharper may scratch and damage the metal.



A quick amount of work will remove the worst, again depending on how much of a perfectionist you are you will eventually remove everything. The nail polish does remove paint but nowhere near as well as Dettol or as thoroughly.





Anyway, I know most people who read my blog will be well versed in all this, but if you do come across this article and your not, I hope it helps you out!


Saturday 11 August 2012

Update: Colour Scheme Reminder


So I got back after a couple of months away this week, and to cut a long story short having been away for so long it had given me lots of time to critique the model I had settled on before I left and make minor tweaks to the scheme. (yes its another test model, but honestly I am done now, half a squad are already part painted like this and now I'm back the fun finally starts.)

3 things I wanted to address:

It kind of looked a bit dull
It was too many layers to paint on mass for my attention span
The khaki was quite dark

While I take back what I said in a previous post (I have realised I will never be totally happy!) he looks spot on to me now. The brass on the gun and lighter metal helps him stand out, where as the trousers were quick and easy to do and look better I think and the khaki highlight is obvious and makes a big difference.

So this post needed updating to help me remember and for anyone's interest.

Good news is I wrote lots of background as I could do little else and will be polishing that and drip feeding it to you soon. Lots of painting to do, but first need to clean my hobby room up so I have space to work, great to be back as much as I love my job. Here's the guy, hastily painted in a day so not a great standard, but finally feel I nailed it.




The Khaki is: Rakarth Flesh, wash of slightly watered Devlan Mud, then Karak Stone, then a highlight of Karak Stone/Skull White mix (Roughly 3 to 1 parts).

Green: Caliban Green, Black Wash, then Castellan Green.

Brown: Simply Mournfang, Black Wash, more Mournfang.

Metal: Boltgun Metal, Black Wash, Drybrush Chainmail.
     
Gold: Mournfang Brown, Shining Gold (Gehenna's), Burnished Ggold, Sepia Wash to dull (except badge and belt buckle).

Base: Scorched Brown (Rhinox), Drybrush Calthan Brown, then XV-88, finally Zandri Dust.

The long grass is Swamp Tuft from Army Painter, the smaller Middenland Tuft. I'll use these two as the main grass throughout the whole army, with some other effects on some models for variety (maybe some of the leaves, new barbed wire etc.). I have tree stumps for 60mm bases.

Saturday 14 July 2012

Colour Scheme Reminder

While my models are far away I realised that I did have this pic on my laptop that I could show everyone before I get back and start painting again. I also wanted to commit, somewhere I could never lose it, the colours I had finally settled on after a lot of trial and error! Thanks to those who gave me their thoughts on the green trousered guy but after a lot of thought I realised I wanted khaki trousers, I just hadn't got the colour khaki the way I wanted it. The guy below is the survivor of more than a dozen test models I started, using combinations of literally every bloody paint in the vague spectrum close to what I was after.



The Khaki is: Steel Legion Drab, Baneblade Brown, then Karak Stone.

Green: Caliban Green, Black Wash, Caliban again, then Castellan Green.

Brown: Simply Mournfang, Black Wash, more Mournfang.

Base: Scorched Brown (Rhinox), Drybrush Calthan Brown, then XV-88, finally Zandri Dust.

The long grass is Swamp Tuft from Army Painter, the smaller Middenland Tuft. I'll use these two as the main grass throughout the whole army, with some other effects on some models for variety (maybe some of the leaves, new barbed wire etc.). I have tree stumps for 60mm bases.

I'm finally happy, although on the actual guys I think I will add a further highlight to the Khaki of a Karak Stone/White Scar mix, and highlight the metal properly.

Of course if you have any comments I can't actually do any work on them so I am open to any ideas for improvement in the meantime, but as I say, after months of trial and error, I finally love the scheme the way I wanted to when I first suggested it.

Monday 9 July 2012

6th Edition and Allies

I have been away (still technically am) with work for a few weeks now so modelling and 6th has mainly passed me by. I have been working on the background fluff of my Regiment though and will start posting up articles soon, as without my models there's not much else I can do hobby related till I return home. Annoyingly, after finally settling on what I think is the best looking scheme I have the first half painted squad at home, where I'm not, which I'm itching to finish and get some pictures up.

In the mean time having ordered the new rulebook and been busy scouring the blogs the main thing I'm excited about in 6th is bringing some allies to the table. My mainly foot Army I think is going to fare quite well with the HP changes to armour, so I have been thinking of what's missing from my army and what I can get in allies wise to do the job. Not necessarily the best army but one I could write fluff for why they are joined and that I would like to collect and paint. So as with all Guard what's really missing is a good CC option. I don't want to sit back like Wellington at Waterloo and just grind the enemy into submission. I'd like to do that while causing serious thought provoking headaches to the enemy!

Firstly it has to be Space Marines, I don't want a weird Tau or Eldar alliance (not that they fit the criteria above!) I want Astartes inspiring my men. My first and obvious thought was Grey Knights but the sheer expense of the units seems too much to stomach, plus fluff wise, in my mind, the leaders of Praetoria, while loyal to the Emperor, are not adverse to lining their pockets and meeting their own agendas while doing so. Therefore they don't exactly want the inquisition around. So with no to GK, while Blood Angels or Black Templar might be the next on the list for CC SM goodness, I don't have any real love for either. This left me with the two Chapters I do really like, Dark Angels and Space Wolves. Fluff problems, Dark Angels are very secretive, Space Wolves are based the other side of the Galaxy (not that that really matters). I have a small Dark Angels Army remaining that I could work with on the plus side, on the downside I'm not really feeling it as for CC prowess we are looking at Deathwing and Ravenwing both of which I don't really like! Bone armour, black armour and on bikes, yuk!

So I'm now looking at a small Space Wolves Ally Army. While not the greatest SM CC force they are still good, plus with the world the 13th are based on being wolf infested, I get a good fluff tie in and can also tie models across the army with Wolf related items. I had already planned on the two CCS bodyguards being wolves! I'm planning on adding a single Grey Hunter Pack, a Character (probably Canis Wolfborn) and Thunderwolf cavalry, maybe Wolf Guard in the future for terminator CC goodness.

I'm quite excited by this, while the Praetorians are still my first labour of love, the thought of painting 100s of green jackets without rest was filling me with dread. A little bit of Space Wolf modelling in-between will help break stuff up. I'd be interested if others have similar plans for allies and what they intend to take? While every 40k Army has a flaw, with allies it probably means you can create an army that is good at all elements, but maybe not as good as the one you are facing!

Friday 8 June 2012

Won my first Practice Game!

Went to a local store who run a games night and encouraged me to come, I had scrabbled together a makeshift army of models from things I haven't yet stripped or was planning to sell and took them along. It closely resembles a lower level of what I'm putting together so I thought a good chance to practice with my intended army and see how I got on. My opponent was very patient with me as I explained I hadn't played a game in about 11 years! But having read the rules and many battle reports I was quite quick to catch on. He had an Ork army and we settled on 1150 points as I could muster 1167 easily and he was happy with me taking that as it was my first game. I stupidly didn't note down his Army when I left but basically he had a Warboss, 90 Boyz, Lootas and one of the new Flyers. The Army I used is below. Sorry no battle report, I was concentrating too hard each turn on checking the rules! Maybe in the future when I get a hang of everything. We ended on turn 6 with his Army wiped out bar the Flyer which had been stunned for 3 turns. I had the Ratlings, Marbo, Leman Russ, Basilisk and 1 Sergeant and a Commissar left of a blob made of  3rd and 4th Squad.

I did learn a few things:

  • Taking the Powerfists and Commissar in the PCS was a complete waste, the squad got wiped out in one turn of shooting. 65 Points is another platoon squad with grenade launcher and powersword, no brainer really.
  • By that token the Commander should probably have a Powerfist to make good use of those three attacks. CCS could also have done with more bodies as well as he targeted it quite heavily (because of the MOO) so maybe will chuck bodyguards in. 
  • The basilisk and Master of Ordnance definitely proved their worth against hordes,
  • I also had much more success with the missile launchers dropping frag than the Autocannons who I always rolled badly for and got only 1 hit out of three turns of firing from the 2! Made me realise guaranteeing a blast against weak armoured horde troops is better, but obviously not as good against better armour and light vehicles so something to tailor dependant on opponent. 
  • The 3 power weapons in the two blobs did really well against the whittled down orcs and one blob managed to send one squad of boyz running after a failed leadership test, after I luckily rolled 7 wounds from them. 
  • Maybe priests would be an idea attached to blobs, expensive though.
  • Ratlings were ace against orks, need more!
  • Penals were an excellent cheap screen, but I need to remember just because they have rolled and been given furious charge does not mean I should assault orks! Got wiped out and stopped them from being a nice road bump like I planned.
  • The Leman russ missed with the lascannon on every turn, as it was there to fire at troops I definitely want ones with just a bolter. 
  • Apart from the missiles I had no real AT which was fine against just his flyer but I think a squad of meltagunners and some lascannons is in order.
I'm playing a Tyranid player next week, which I think will be a learning experience. All very well gunning down Orks running at me, Tyranids deep striking amongst me will cause much more problems I think!

List I used is below:


Unit
Upgrade
Cost
HQ


Company Command HQ1

50


Company Commander
Power Weapon
10

4x Veteran
Regimental Standard
15

Medipack
30

2x Plasma Gun
30

Master of Ordinance

30


165

Elites


Ratling Squad

30


X5 Ratlings
2 extra Ratlings
20


50

Marbo

65

Troops



1st Platoon


PCS

30


Officer
Powerfist, Bolt Pistol
17


4x Guardsman
4x Flamer
20


Commissar
Powerfist
50


117

1st Squad

50


Sergeant
Power Weapon
10


7x Guardsman
Grenade Launcher
5


2xGuardsman (1)
Missile Launcher
15


Commissar
Power Weapon
45


125

2nd Squad

50


Sergeant
Power Weapon
10


7x Guardsman
Grenade Launcher
5


2xGuardsman (1)
Missile Launcher
15


80

3rd Squad

50


Sergeant
Power Weapon
10


7x Guardsman
Grenade Launcher
5


2xGuardsman (1)
Autocannon
10


Commissar
Power Weapon
45


120

4th Squad

50


Sergeant
Power Weapon
10


7x Guardsman
Grenade Launcher
5


2xGuardsman (1)
Autocannon
10


75

Penal Squad
N/A
80


Penal Custodian
N/A
N/A

Heavy Support


Leman Russ Battle Tank
Lascannon
165

Basilisk

125

Total
1167