Monday, 26 November 2012

Basilisk Conversion WIP and resin help!

So while painting is ongoing (see 3 half painted guardsmen in background and the cap badge/backpack conveyor belt!) I thought I would show the other thing I am working on. My Forgeworld bits arrived today to convert my Basilisk. With the old boring gun shield removed I started looking at adding the new. 


I have read that warm water is good to bend the resin bits (back?!) into shape. Anyone got any tips on what temperature works best? I take it that its not boiling a kettle job? Also how long do you generally leave it in the water to become supple enough to bend into shape? Is there any danger in too hot/leaving too long?

Another question, but as my basilisk was already put together (about ten years ago!) I missed a trick with magnetising the heavy weapon. What's the thoughts on artillery wielding heavy flamers? Can it fire the heavy flamer and the main gun, I believe from what I read it can't? The heavy bolter, is it just snap shots if you remain stationary and fire main gun? the main rulebook is super ambiguous.

I was thinking the heavy flamer would be a good choice but now it can direct fire inside 36 inches that heavy bolter might be useful, but not if only snap firing. Mind you if you cant fire the main gun and heavy flamer that makes that pretty useless too.

Below is one of the crew I'm putting together for the Basilisk. He needs some green stuffing and cap badge, plus I have goggles for him and his oppo courtesy of Victoria Lamb (My green stuffing skills aren't up to that of the illustrious Col Winterborne!)


Cheers for your help in advance!

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8 comments:

  1. Unknown27 November 2012 at 08:42

    Resin Help?? Heres how I do It. I use Boiling water from an electric kettle. I pour it into a styro cup (or appropriate sized cup for your project) And submerge the part that needs bent completely for a few seconds. I then try to bend it back to where it needs to be. Obviously the thinner the part the faster it will heat so on small parts as swords and the like I actually point in the direction it needs to go to be straight and pour water over the part for a few seconds, or submerge and then allow gravity to pull it straight. If im not being clear feel free to hit me up on Email (Munkeyjoe75 AT Gmail DOT com) and I can better explain or help. Im a resin caster and work with resin wargame parts all the time.

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    1. Buffer27 November 2012 at 18:20

      Tommy thanks, that's what I thought, although I thought kettle boiled water might be too hot. I'll get that basilisk screen straightened out!

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  2. Honey Beeginnings27 November 2012 at 13:08

    I like the crew. It looks like a missile launcher model, am I correct? What are the arms you used and where can one find them. And finally, I am not sure what you meant by "oppo"? Keep up the good work.

    Rules wise I would say that the heavy bolter is a better option. At least it can be effective up to 36 inches. The heavy flamer is only good up to 8 inches. If the enemy is that close then kiss your bassie goodbye anyway. It depends on personal preference and style of play, but I think the bolter is a better option.

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    1. Buffer27 November 2012 at 18:18

      Yep, its one of my missile guys I had spare without a launcher. The arms are from Victoria Miniatures heavy weapons upgrades, I shaved the ends near the shoulder down and they don't seem to now be too bad for scale. Lol, oppo is a military (possibly just Navy) term for your work colleague, its short for opposite number, I'm too indoctrinated!

      See my understanding of reading 6th is you can't do anything other than snap fire if you fire ordnance, making the heavy bolter pretty useless. Its going to hit statistically once every two turns and, as I presume I will be mainly firing against Space Marines, that one shot will more than likely be saved. So I'm thinking go with heavy flamer, the one time I might need it, it might be useful, where as the HB has a statistically small chance of actually causing an unsaved wound even if I can see what I'm firing at.

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    2. Admiral Drax27 November 2012 at 23:02

      We used 'oppo' in the army too, though it confuses the kids at school where I work now when it slips out.

      I always give my artillery heavy bolters for the same reasons as Mk6, but it's worth noting that either can be useful if you lose your main gun, so you can charge your chassis round the board indiscriminately firing ineffectually at stuff, ramming things and blocking routes. If you're so inclined. NB: if you are 'charging around', it's worth noting that template weapons cannot snap-shoot...

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  3. Colonel Scipio27 November 2012 at 21:27

    Nice work - I'm a big fan of the Basilisk model, and I like to see any conversions. This one looks smashing. Have to say, I never gave my heavy weapons that much thought, I generally go by aesthetics alone. I'm beginning to see the folly in that. I know it's already been said but boiling water is the solution for me as well.

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    1. Admiral Drax27 November 2012 at 23:04

      Scipio - cheap and cheerful: http://admiraldrax.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/medusa

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    2. Colonel Scipio28 November 2012 at 12:21

      Brilliant! You sir, are a legend. I love that conversion, thanks for the link.

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